With the start of the school year it's been tough to set aside time to go back and think about my experience this summer. I've had the opportunity to talk to colleagues about my journey, and some of my students from last year have come by to ask how it was. Every time I talk about it I feel as though I am still there. Going back through my pictures takes me right back to those wonderful moments so I know I'm going to enjoy writing about my experience, it just may take me longer than I expected. I do have lesson plans, gardens to plant and projects to start. I've got to pace myself.
When we arrived in Longyearbyen, Svalbard the temperature change was drastic. It was drizzling and cold but we were whisked away to a small hotel restaurant to eat and then to a museum to see artifacts from the earliest explorers of the region. And though all the facts and information were great, the best part of our first day with our group was how we had to board the ship. Due to another ship being docked and rough seas, we had to board using the zodiac. and did just fine until we had to come alongside the ship...we hit a wave in the front and it turned into a water ride! Nothing but giggles as we boarded the National Geographic Explorer for the first time. Very memorable for sure. Touring the ship was surreal, it was finally happening, we were finally onboard. All the work, all the waiting, all the anticipating....we were finally embarking on our great adventure. Little did we know how great it would be. I could say that the pictures speak for themselves but I'll do my best to fill in what they don't say. My first memory of being on board is the hot chocolate that was served by a wonderful staff member named Marek. He was absolutely the sweetest and always looked out for us. The hot chocolate was just what we needed to warm our bones from a cold day and watery entrance onboard the ship. Our first excursion took us to northern Svalbard, and our first encounter with wildlife. (aside from birds) We also saw the smallest flowers and plants surviving in this isolated landscape. As we stepped foot on the the rocky shores of Svalbard, we were greet with dinosaur tracks and a whale bone that was estimated to be 10-40 thousand years old. Being able to step foot on a place that has been so barren of human touch for so long was truly overwhelming. Though some hardy souls had been here in centuries past, this was not your usual tourist spot. I felt so privileged to be walking around where dinosaurs once meandered about. Our first zodiac cruise occurred a day later. As we traveled the quiet waters, with only the noise of our zodiac engines, I was struck by the immensity of the landscape. Our smallness wasn't obvious at first, until I saw the other zodiacs trolling about near the icebergs....then it hit me just how small we really were. We quietly cruised past a bearded seal lounging on a piece of ice not much larger then he was. Then we came upon an ice sculpture that reminded all of us of superman's residence. Our guide was Dagny (pronounced THINY, like Tiny with a TH)....every time I had her as my driver she would turn off the engine or make us sit if we were on land and take a few minutes to literally stop....and listen to the world around us. Today she had us listen to the crackling of the ice we were floating in. It sounded like rice krispies cereal just after you pour the milk on it. It reminded me that no matter how busy I get, how crowded my world becomes with people and things, that it's important to stop and listen to what's really going on around you. What I'll leave you with today is this....it's ok to be isolated sometimes. It's ok to take time for yourself and sit still and just be. Though I was on a ship with about 180 people total, I had many moments when I felt alone, just me and my thoughts. And it was so refreshing to have those moments to think clearly and reflect. I often felt like an explorer, there were no other ships, no other humans than the ones we brought with us...we were completely alone, looking for a clearing, for a fogless fjord to explore, being guided only by experience of our captain and crew.
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.Sunday - June 3oth -
We left the comfort of our Bergen digs early in order to hop on a fjord cruise to Flam. It would take us most of the morning to get there but it was a very relaxing ride with incredible green landscapes dotted with bright pops of color. One of the most remarkable things (and there are so many) about Norway/Sweden is that they love color in the countryside. Most of our tour around Stockholm by boat displayed a very grey, industrial feel in the architecture. Very minimalistic. But the countryside....oh the countryside, I could live there. Lush valleys, steep hillsides and mountains carved for millions of years by the glaciers. Pictures just can't do these places any justice. Fun fact: Did you know that the glacial weight pressed upon places like Svalbard and Scandinavia were (are) so heavy that much of the region is "bouncing back" as the glacial ice recedes and will continue to do so for many years to come. So at 8am we were off on one of our longest travel days of our trip. We spent the morning traveling to Flam. The cruise was as smooth as glass, and a bit chilly in the front if you were willing to brave the wind and slight mist. I enjoyed the hum of the engine and the table conversation we had with 3 youngsters, well, they were in their twenties but I feel old enough I can call them youngsters. They had been traveling throughout Europe and had about another week to go before getting back to reality. Our simple conversations made me rewind the clock to when I was young and brought a tinge of regret. I wish I had travelled when I was in my twenties. I grew up travelling with my parents, sure, but I never really struck out on my own or with friends to see parts of the world before I was in my 30s......so I encourage others to do so. Make time to do those simple things like work at a national park over the summer, be a river rafting guide, study abroad, back pack for cheap in Africa or Europe. Take in the full wonderment of the world as often as you can and start as soon as you can. That's my unsolicited advice. As we arrived in Flam the sun came out for just long enough for us to view the contrast of Flam; cold and dark, crisp and bright. Both were beautiful. We had 3 hours to kill so we of course found a trail and ventured up. This one was no Stoltzekleiven (or as Laura called it "Stairs your climbin") but the view was no less inspiring. I remember this day fondly for one reason....lack of planning. Those that know me know that my heart is always in the right place but I'm not always the most organized person. So months before we ever left for our trip, Nicole had emailed us with details and information that I perused and then "flagged" it to go through later. In that information she had suggested we make sure to print out our tickets for this day. We would be boarding 1 boat and 2 trains in a place where WiFi was questionable.....so what did I do? Well I didn't print out my ticket of course because I like to live dangerously, and I couldn't pull it up on my phone. Before I could board our first train I had to go to the visitor center and have them print my ticket. As my 2 roomies were getting in line to board the train, I was lamenting over my poor choices. I ended up getting in line so late that there was no way I could catch up to my friends so I managed to get in a car that was close enough that I could find them if I needed. I didn't see them for the whole train ride.....bummer right? Not exactly..as circumstances go, I ended up across from a lovely older couple, who had just finished their expedition with Lindblad and National Geographic. I was "exactly where I needed to be"--> the sign at the visitor center said so. (pictured above) The couple noticed the yellow expedition tag on my luggage and started an enlightening conversation with me for the next 2 hours. They gave me great travel insights, told me about Rick Steve, who puts out travel guides for places all over the world and how I needed to look him up, talked about their trips to several of the 105 countries they've visited and gave me some pointers on how to best remember my own experience I was about to go on. The visitor sign wasn't wrong. We all have "bucket" lists I believe.....and what I came to learn, to expect almost, was that even though I was knocking items off my list as I came across them, I added just as many, if not more, to the bottom. Every story I heard, every person I talked to offered new insights, new perspectives. As a geographer, I teach these principles to my students; perspectives matter, stories matter, what people and cultures believe matters, go places and do things and don't just read about them, go experience them for yourself and find the truth of what Google says about a place. This experience renewed these ideations in me that had been long buried by the responsibilities of adulthood. I've always loved travelling. It'll be my mother's legacy when she's gone. She planned every detail of every vacation we ever went on as kids, and dad drove us all over the country to "learn things". I have them both to thank for my wanderlust. I want my students to have that too. They don't have to travel far, they just need to start by asking "why" and that'll lead them to down the path to their own Stoltzekleiven. It's been two weeks tomorrow since I arrived home from what has to be the most incredible journey I may ever go on. I'm happy to report that as a non-journaler I actually accomplished journaling every night while I was on my expedition, with a little help from one of my roommates, Laura, who also journaled every night. It's helpful to have accountability. I've had very little time to reflect on my experience until now so I apologize for the few images and limited text that I was able to post daily on Facebook. In my defense, the WiFi was spotty and it was easiest to get out a few pics and a small description with the hope that I would follow up later. So, here's later...... I'll try to combine a few days together so as not to bore you with too many details...and I'll stick to the highlights for the sake of time. I hope you enjoy these moments as much as I did going through them. Side note: We were at 78 degrees north so the fact that WiFi was even available at all? My hats off to the tech people at Lindblad and National Geographic...BRAVO! Pre-Expedition AdventuresTuesday/Wednesday - June 25/26 - Our adventure began with an unexpected plane delay, running through the airport, sacrificing an amazing half-full water bottle at airport security so we could make our flight, only to watch our friend and GTF Laura leave without me and Nicole. So as Laura headed off to Stockholm, Nicole and I hung out, grabbed a bite to eat and waited for the next flight, a 1-stop flight through Copenhagen, Denmark (positive: passport stamp!) and finally getting to our quaint little apartment in Gamla Stan, Stockholm. It was a 24 hour ordeal; Laura braved it like a champ, site seeing and killing time waiting for us to get there. By Wednesday at 5pm we had finally reunited and found our first meal; what else but Swedish meatballs! Thursday/Friday - We spent our next few days seeing museums, (Vasa, ABBA, Medieval, National History) where I discovered that I like the old art over the new. As I perused the National History Museum I found myself drawn to the intricate detail of the furniture, paintings and desks. To make those pieces so detailed gave me a sense of wonder and amazement at the time it took to create such masterpieces. We ate lunch and dinner at a variety of places, trying to get the feel of the locale but our most memorable for me was our Viking meal. The setting was dimly lit, loud and raucous, just the kind of viking world I'd imagined. As we came in our names and places were taken and then we were loudly announced to the rest of the restaurant by the host, a rather large and boisterous man as the crowd cheered and welcomed us in. We sat at a picnic style table with others, elbow to elbow, and had a fabulous meal, viking style. Saturday/Sunday - As much as I loved our time in Stockholm I might have fallen in love with Bergen. Aren't we allowed favorites? We arrived in the afternoon in this happy little town full of color, despite the overcast skies, and the smells of a fresh food market down by the waters edge. After we taste tested our way through the various vendors we settled on some fish and chips (Nicole) fish soup (me) and some kind of rice dish (Laura), it was fabulous and much cheaper than our other intown options. On our flight over we'd met a lovely lady who regaled us with how wonderful Bergen was. After a short conversation she stopped, looked us up and down and said, "You look sporty, you have to try the Stoltzekleiven (Stultz-el-Kliven) trail to Fløyen." She continued to describe this beautiful hike up to the overlook (Floyen) over Bergen. So after filling our tummies with yummies Laura and I decided we must discover what this trail was all about, while Nicole chose the more established path up to Floyen, a tram straight up the side of the mountain. Laura and I had no idea what we were getting into; we had no phone service (i.e. Google), only a map (in Norwegian) and just our "head this way" mental compass...practicing our inner explorer. And for those of you that know me, you know that this is not a good idea. So we headed in the direction of the trailhead, according to a Radisson Hotel employee that pointed to a place on a map.... in Norwegian might I remind you........and got a little lost. I know you're surprised...shocked even. But we eventually made it to our starting point after about an hour or so (I'd stopped looking at my watch), and began our 700+ stair master class....an hour or so later, we made it to the top, and then found our next clue, a sign that read "3.2 kilometers to Floyen"....UGH! An hour and half later we'd made it to our final destination, Floyen...and it was worth all the hours getting there. Along the way we found an interesting slug, other hikers (always a good sign that you aren't completely lost) and an amazing playground built for children....of the larger variety? So we played and hung out and then took in the view of Bergen. Trying to pronounce the Norwegian signs as we came across turned into a fun game for us as we hiked along (and later I'll teach you all some Icelandic and Norwegian...which would have been handy this day)...... We were thankful for the gift shop being open at 9:30 pm and the hot chocolate they were selling. It was another 3 kilometers or so to get down the mountain...and by then we were feeling less "sporty" so we bought a ticket and rode the tram down :-) . What I remember most about this day was how I felt like I was truly living in the moment....not really worried about tomorrow, just taking life as it came at us....it was incredibly liberating.....and a feeling I want to experience more often. I also fondly remember how delirious Laura and I got towards the end of our hike...Example: I licked my "creamy choc" cup (pictured above) because it stated that it was made from 100% sugar cane....so shouldn't it be even the slightest bit sweet?...that was my hypothesis, but I was sorely disappointed. :-) I'll spend my next blog describing our scenic tour through the fjords of Norway and our views from the trains as we traveled to Oslo. I have about an hour before we pack up and haul our luggage to our final one night stay. Tonight we meet up with our National Geographic crew and other guest on the National Geographic Explorer for dinner. After getting in late last night from an all day sightseeing, fjord cruise, train ride through the breathtaking country of Norway, we decided to take it easy this morning and sleep in until 9. I'm working on details of our last few days so I'll be posting before we board the ship tomorrow. As a first time traveler abroad, I can't yet describe the feelings I've had the last few days.....incredible gratitude for the opportunity I've been given, humbled by the people I've met and will meet going forward, awed by the beauty of such fascinating landscapes and responsible to share this journey with others, to inspire others to explore their surroundings, even if only in their backyard. In the last few days, I can't count how many times I've pondered "wow, that's so unique, we don't do it like that where I'm from".....and many times I found myself thinking that their way is better than my way. I've learned that minimalism is really a thing, and the Scandinavians are really good at making the most out of tiny spaces. Tiny bathrooms, showers without any doors, tiny sinks, walking......everywhere, tiny tables in cafes packed in so close you might as well be sharing your meal with strangers. And why not? We've had some great conversations with some of our "table mates" and "strangers" over the last few days...and here's the kicker...everyone has such a fascinating story to tell. Forcing ourselves to be vulnerable and share a piece of ourselves with others and learn from strangers is so transformative. It makes you feel like you're all in this together, learning and growing as a community. Seeing the world (whether local or global) through their eyes and yours really makes you truly feel connected. I came across a phrase at the visitor center in Flam, Norway as I was asking the gracious ticket agent to print out my ticket. If I had printed it out ahead of time I would have never seen that little nugget of wisdom. (and I've seen it before but this time it spoke to me). "You are Exactly Where You Need to Be".......In essence, it means regardless of circumstance or mishap, you are where you are meant to be at this very moment, so take advantage of it, use the heck out of that moment. Whether it's missing your flight, or getting in the last part of the train line and not sitting with your shipmates (this was me), don't panic because things didn't go according to plan. For part of the train ride through the fjords I wasn't with my shipmates due to the ticket issue, but I ended up sitting across from a lovely couple who had actually just departed from the National Geographic Explorer (which we will board tomorrow) and remembered meeting some of the other GTFs aboard their ship. In between snapping pictures and small talk, we shared our love of travel and tips to think about while on board the ship...it was a most enjoyable train ride for me. I was exactly where I needed to be. So I hope whatever the circumstance you find yourself in, travel, staycation, or best laid plans gone awry....remember that you are exactly where you need to be and make the most of it. Specifics on Stockholm, Bergen and Oslo will be posted later tonight. :-)
So here we are...the evening before my departure tomorrow morning at 10:30...and I'm relatively calm......or am I? I've taken some time with this past week to see friends and visited the George W. Bush Library for a potential field trip op for the next school year (teachers never rest), went to the movies without getting a babysitter (kids are in Colorado with the in-laws) and sat down for a nice chat with a dear friend from school. It was refreshing. However, panic struck Friday afternoon when I realized I did not know where my new credit card was(the other one expires in June!)....only that I was pretty sure it was in the house somewhere....(if I could have captured the look on my husband's face).....how on earth was I going to go to Europe without a credit card?!?!?!? As I frantically ran around the house, mumbling under my breath, "I know I saw it right here", I finally put my hands on it, laying underneath a stack of kid papers from the end of year party. Whew!... Today, I got up early, cleaned house, washed every piece of clothing we have so I could ensure optimal choice when packing my outfits, bathed the little dog and waited for the bug man to show up and finally....started really packing.... I mean, I've had things laid out since Sunday but there really is an art to packing, so I packed in everything I thought was necessary and then weighed my bag....5 lbs over. Opened up the bag and changed the side of the bag I put all my clothes on....like that was going to make a difference. (I also took out the camera stuff and put that in my carry on). Then my husband and I debated how big of a jacket I really needed which led to an intense google weather search of the temperatures in Longyearbyen, Svalbard (not as far north as I'll go, but it's up there) and it was a high of 41ish for the whole week....(which might be cold for you but it's not 20!) so we ditched my big coat, decided I have plenty of layers and I'd be fine. Pray for me. I'm actually fortunate in so many ways; many Grosvenor Teacher Fellows have trekked on before me and been so generous with feedback, suggestions and must haves, that the packing really hasn't been terrible. There really aren't that many unknowns. I need at least 2 nicer-ish outfits for our evening dinner at the beginning and end of the trip, leggings for layers, flip-flops for the muck room, tennis shoes for onboard wear and other essential layerish items. While rethinking my wardrobe I had to, of course, be more realistic about how many workout outfits I should bring....(pipe dreams) so I scaled those back and feel good about what I have (knowing we have laundry service onboard ship). And to top it all off, my 14th wedding anniversary is tomorrow --> the day I leave for this journey of a lifetime. My husband has been amazingly supportive; making sure the bank knows where I'll be, cell phone is ready with unlimited texting, and the kids will get their little surprises from mommy while I'm away. He's. The. Best. So tonight we'll go out to our favorite not-so-fancy restaurant and catch a movie (Godzilla because why not) to celebrate 14 crazy years together. I've had since last Tuesday to really wrestle with my thoughts, tinker with my cameras, think about my packing list, check and re-check what I'm bringing, a truly endless stream of incoherent ramblings of a jam packed summer rolling through my mind. I've enjoyed my mommy down time this week, but I'll miss my kids like crazy when I gone, they'll surely be graduating high school by the time I return. I want them and others (kids and adults alike) to see that there's no perfect time in your life to be ready for an adventure like this, to get everything in order. When opportunity knocks, be brave enough to answer it and enjoy the ride. Disclaimer: due to WiFi connectivity I have no idea how often I will post something. Most likely I'll post pics and text on Facebook/Twitter and then unload all my thoughts when I get back....guess we'll have to see. :-)
As I was absorbing my new books on the back porch in my hammock on Sunday, my pre-expedition documents arrived! This was yet another moment where I had to almost pinch myself. This is really happening.... I can't help but reflect on how incredibly grateful I am for this opportunity.
I have been surrounded by supportive, knowledgeable and caring educators/colleagues throughout my 17 year career. These people work so hard for each other and students day in and day out despite how tough the job is because at the end of the day, we love what we do....even on the days we don't, we still do. Today, an act of kindness and selflessness, reminded me of how wonderful my colleagues are. As I prepare to take on the Arctic, I worry about getting it right. I have so many thoughts on science experiments, long-term projects once I get back, virtual footage to create a VR experience for my students, learning how to use my fancy camera....that I've had for years but never learned more than how to point and auto focus........because I just can't miss that shot of the NARWHAL! --I'd be my 6 year old daughters' hero if I snapped a shot of the "unicorn of the sea"! As I checked my email this evening I was set aback by a Google Slide deck that was created by one of my colleagues (with simple terms and pictures!) to help me with my anxiety of getting the right shot. Though they'd likely prefer to remain nameless, I feel it only right to at least speak of my immense gratitude towards the thought that they'd take the time to put something together during one of the busiest weeks of the year for educators. I was immediately reminded of something another friend posted on Twitter earlier today about "partnerships, togetherness, that's what makes the world a better place." No truer words. Today I was reminded that this journey I'm taking is not mine alone, I'll take my friends, colleagues and students with me to the Arctic, with them in mind I'll come back with life changing experiences and knowledge that all can benefit from. I'm reminded also of how wonderful my job is, how amazingly selfless my colleagues are and how educators as a whole are natural givers, supporters and cheerleaders of others. We grow people and we grow each other. As I sit here in my classroom, I'm looking at a to-do list that feels a million miles long. This time of year, every teacher I know has one that looks just like mine so I know I'll get no sympathy from them. We all work so hard every day to bring our best to the classroom but let's face it, in May, the struggle is real....so it's not just the kiddos having a hard time getting up in the morning, trust me.
But today I'm pondering the excitement of what some of my fellow GTF (Grosvenor Teacher Fellows) must be going through today/tonight as they prepare for their expedition. Some of them are leaving TOMORROW and that seems to be giving me anxiety(or excitement) and I've still got 2 months before my trip. I'm excited for them for so many reasons. 1) We all know what an opportunity this is for us as educators and we all hoping we come back with some amazing ideas and things for our students to dive into. And the brain trust in our group is really earth shattering and very hopeful, knowing that these kinds of teachers are out there really pouring into what they do and doing amazing things with their classrooms. 2) I don't think they'll sleep tonight....I mean, just the unknown alone will keep them awake tonight, kind of like the night before school...I'm always excited about the first day of school....and the last..hahaha . 3) I'd be nervous, talking to all the experts about all their adventures, what they've seen, where they've been....but also excited to get to talk to them and experience their adventures through them. I'm so excited for my GTFs and I plan to follow them as much as I can and learn from them as they navigate this amazing experience. I still have a lot of work to do. Between learning how to capture 360 video footage and operating my own camera as well as biology experiments and water samples to collect, I've got some planning to do. And I've started those books, but I'll be honest, I'll breeze right through them as soon as I get my students through AP season....one more week. I'm thankful I don't depart until June, gives me a little breathing room...not much, but enough to get it all together to enjoy and be totally present for this experience of a lifetime. I spent a large portion of the day working on this website. Took me longer than I thought it would which is pretty typical for any project I begin. But as I put the finishing touches on it, I realized just how much work I had to do.
As I made my video and pieced it together it dawned on me that I really don't know much about the Arctic. It's truly why I chose this location for my once in a lifetime professional development opportunity...I know very little about this remote region of the world. While I was in D.C. for our pre-expedition workshop I got a hold of some book titles that were "must reads" before I travel north. Titles such as Farthest North by Fridjtof Nansen published over 100 years ago and is a first-person account of a harrowing 15 month voyage through the ice to the North Pole. Sounds tantalizing....it's over 500 pages long! Well it was 15 months long after all, I'd better order it now and start reading. There's another recommended read titled A History of the Arctic: Nature, Exploration and Exploitation by John McCannon. From the Stone Age to the present McCannon explains all global aspects of the Arctic from resource disputes to indigenous populations and the role of climate change in the region. This one is right in my wheelhouse of curiosity and I'll definitely be ordering it tonight! This one's a mere 400 pages. Kids....hear this now and know it well.....reading is important! I'm so thankful I've got just over 2 months to prepare to write my own epic tale. Stay tuned... |